CANTON, N.Y. — If the Pilgrims had known what a big deal Thanksgiving was going to become in America they would undoubtedly have taken some pictures. Even the menu has been lost to us, although Wampanoag oral history, plus a few Pilgrim grocery receipts found by archeologists, suggest there was corn, beans and squash as well as fowl and venison. Beyond that there may have been chestnuts, sun chokes (“Jerusalem” artichokes), cranberries and a variety of seafood.
Many historians believe the Pilgrims would have all perished during the winter of 1620 if not for food provided by the Wampanoags, whose land they appropriated. In the spring of 1621, Wampanoags gave the Pilgrims crop seeds, as well as a tutorial (possibly an App; we can’t be sure) on the production, storage and preservation of food crops including corn, beans, and squash.
That fall—we’re not even certain if it was October or November—Pilgrims gave thanks for Native American agriculture, and feasted upon its bounty for three days straight. The Wampanoags probably gave thanks that there weren’t more ships full of Pilgrims on the horizon just then.
Barley was the only European-sourced crop that the Pilgrims managed to raise in 1621. Unfortunately, they seemed unaware it could be eaten. The upside, however, was that there was plenty of beer at Thanksgiving dinner.
While corn, beans and squash, “The Three Sisters,” were, and are, grown by many native peoples in the Americas, other indigenous crops will grace American Thanksgiving tables this year. Maybe you’ll have appetizers out for company before dinner. Mixed nuts, anyone? Peanuts are a big-time Native American crop. Pecans and sunflower seeds, too. And everyone likes corn chips with dip, right? Those hot (and sweet) peppers and tomatoes in the salsa are Native American foods. Prefer dip made with avocado? Yep, another native food. And the same for popcorn.
Turkeys, which had been domesticated by native peoples long before European contact, are of course indigenous to the New World. Modern turkey breeds have been selected for heavier bodies, but they are the exact same species as our wild turkey, whose range extends from southern Mexico north to southern Canada.
But a lot of the “fixings” used in today’s Thanksgivings also come from the New World. Cranberry sauce is a good example (a related Vaccinium species occurs in northern Europe, but its berries are much smaller than the cranberries found here, which have now been domesticated worldwide). And it wouldn’t be Thanksgiving without mashed potatoes to soak up the gravy. White (“Irish”) potatoes are a New World crop, as are sweet potatoes. We can thank Native American agronomists for green beans and Lima beans. Don’t forget the squash—Native peoples developed many varieties, including Hubbard and butternut squash, and pumpkins, which are technically a winter squash.
Which brings us to the iconic Thanksgiving pumpkin pie—I think just about everyone is thankful for that treat. Nothing goes with pie like ice cream, which is not from the New World, but some great flavorings are. Maple-walnut is one of the earliest ice cream varieties in New England, two indigenous flavors that go together famously. While not from the Northeast, vanilla is from the Americas, and so is chocolate. If you add some toppings like strawberry or blueberry (even pineapple) sauce, you’ll be having more Native American foods for dessert.
Wishing you all a happy and healthy Thanksgiving, filled with family and gratitude. Among other things, we can be grateful to Native peoples and their crops. But please, don’t blame First-Nations agronomists if you need to loosen your belt a notch or two afterward.
–Paul Hetzler
Horticulture and Natural Resources Educator
Cornell Cooperative Extension of St. Lawrence County
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